Im waiting for Belkin, i dont feel comfortable doing the above when it could be responsible for the safety of £££'s worth of my AV equipment. I would like one thats wired correctly!
No contact from Belkin yet.
Rob
Why would the circuit breaker be bypassed?
But if the incoming mains is already (incorrectly) reversed , it's probably on the wrong circuit anyway.
Well, what I actually meant that the circuit breaker was now on the Neutral wire. However, I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't still trip with a current in excess of 10A. Since we are talking about AC then it shouldn't make much difference if it's connected to Live or Neutral in terms of effectiveness, right?
Yes, but the fix doesn't correct that.
(i) My thoughts too
(ii) That's what I think, but I wanted to understand why the poster thought differently.
I have noticed the pf40 is no longer on Ballicoms website but strangely still on Ebay.
Hope you guys get a positve result from Belkin am now wishing I hadnt posted this.
Regards Martin
I'm glad you posted it. I've got a very cheap unit that, once fixed, will do the job of far more expensive products (e.g. Isotek Minisub) and it has extra functionality thrown in.
Cheers,
Neil
Hi Mr Incredible, I didn't mean to suggest it wouldn't work on the neutral but it's not good practice. Do you think Belkin would pay out if you had problems after it has been tampered with?
Belkin level 2 support have contacted me and are arranging a swap for my unit, he is also passing on the info to research and development so they can source the faulty batch.
Regards mipmip.
I understand that, but if the live/neutral were swapped to be "correct" the circuit breaker would be on the live circuit.Fair point about the paying out.
Me, I'd be happy to correct Belkin's error and get a good unit for £40.That said, if you're lucky to get the option of a PF50 than all the better!I believe the PF50 has 6 filters instead of 4 and you can program the switch on delay for each socket, not just the high current one.
I suppose the definitive way of knowing whether the plug is connected correctly of not is to take off the lid (all unplugged of course)and do a circuit test between the live pin on the plug and the live wire (red I presume) as it enters the terminal block.That should be a definitive test as to the root cause, if it is that.
It's brown, but I couldn't do that and void my warranty could I. data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
Regards mipmip.