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Greg you sound like you have a very basic system just like we had in our first house. The argument was the fewer parts it had the less there was to go wrong .
The thermostat at the boiler didn't respond to room temperature only the temperature of the water returning to it. The idea being that when all the rooms are warm and their TRVs shut down the water coming back will be hot enough that the boiler can turn off. Same for the hot water, it relies on the water in the tank reaching the same temperature as the hot water in the pipes, so nice hot water returns to the boiler and the boiler can shut down. There was no independent switching to water or heating when the boiler was on water went to both, only when the water returning to the boiler was hot did it shut down. Then there was a big manual switch in the airing cupboard with a summer winter setting so you could isolate the radiators in summer. The major downside, apart from the lack of finesse were that the temperature of the circulating water determined the temperature of your hot water so you had to set it at a safe level, which isn't an optimum one for heating radiators and primarily that the boiler was always keeping it's own water at the set temperature, so was continually cycling water through pipes even when everything was at temperature. In other words, assuming the boiler was set at 60 deg, as soon as the water in the boiler itself cooled below that, off it would go again, circulating water around the system until it was nice and cosy again.
It would also be impossible to control such a system with the nest because you could never be sure you had any hot water, it would only ever turn the boiler on when the radiators required it.
Can you check whether your existing timer has separate hot water and heating switching Greg? If so you may be OK. And you can ignore the boiler thermostat |
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