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Most settings that you apply will be only be applied to jpeg, the only thing that will directly affect the look of the RAWs are exposure and WB (both of which you can change in PP of course, WB usually without any penalties). Things like sharpening, clarity, contrast, picture settings, d-lighting, and tone curves (if your camera has them) will affect jpeg only. That being said, if you use the camera manufacturer's PP software then they can emulate certain effects (such as d-lighting) on the RAW files.
What your example shows is just how much more detail RAW captures than jpeg, which is why I always recommend shooting RAW. People have been asking for in camera RAW histograms for years but to date it's fallen on deaf ears/no-one's found a way to do it/it takes too much processing power. Histograms are extremely useful, but you have to be aware that they are also 'flawed'. If you're a RAW shooter I would always recommend turning off all effects (d-lighting, vignette etc) and not changing contrast and clarity too much so that your histogram looks as 'natural' as possible. I guess you could make your jpegs look less contrasty if you want to mimic the 'look' of the dull RAWs, but in PP you're not going to leave the RAWs like this anyway so some might say you're better off leaving the jpegs alone as the histogram will give a better representation of what your final histogram may look like. |
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