Mesh Wi-Fi - AVR is the fly in the ointment

RayP

My BT Home Hub 5 is located in an upstairs bedroom and provides decent wi-fi coverage to my 3 bed semi including part of the lounge. Running SpeedTest on my laptop in the lounge gives me 63Mbps - the same as a wired connection upstairs.

But on the other side of the lounge where I have my Loewe Smart TV, Sky Q and Oppo 203 UHD player the wi-fi signal is severely hampered by the chimney breast. So all those devices are connected via ethernet to homeplugs.

Watching YouTube videos on the TV (via ethernet) shows a download rate of around 22Mbps - virtually a third of the wi-fi speed on the other side of the room. Downloading a 4K film from Sky takes several hours and I tend to leave it until I go to bed to start it.

I want to use the full capability of my BT Hub but the only way possible seems to be via mesh wi-fi. A satellite in the lounge would greatly increase the speed. The proposed location of this satellite would be on the opposite wall to my TV etc. so it can pick up the signal from the router upstairs.

However, there is a fly in the ointment. Whilst the TV, Oppo 203 and Sky Q box have wi-fi capability the Yamaha RX-A3010 AVR doesn't. It's ethernet only.

And I have two PCs, a printer and a Synology NAS box in the same bedroom as the existing BT Home Hub 5 all connected via ethernet. The NAS box has my music stored on it which the Oppo needs to 'see' in order to play it gaplessly. I suppose as long as those are connected to the mesh router via Ethernet they will be fine. Is that possible?

But the AVR appears to be the sticking point since I can't see any way other than ethernet via a homeplug to connect it to this new 'mesh' network. Is that the only solution but given the AVR isn't going to be downloading anything off the internet is it important?

Any advice greatly appreciated.

Chester

There are a few solutions Ray, let's go through a couple:

Whole Home WiFi.  I think you're considering this kit since you're referring to the term 'mesh'.  You can then get a WiFi to Ethernet adapter (one such device is the Netgear WNCE2001, now obsolete) or a WiFi AP (Access Point) in client mode will do the same thing.  

To be absolutely clear, I don't subscribe to the idea of devices using WiFi where timing is critical, so gaming, audio, video, or any high bandwidth applications.  You are always going to get faster responses, higher bandwidth and consistent repeatable results over wired Ethernet, and no-one can guarantee this over WiFi.  And the more WiFi devices, radio barriers and interference there is, the stronger this statement becomes.

As you're consuming all ports in the Home Hub, my next suggestion requires two network switches instead of just one.  And yes, there is an uplink cable involved, so I hope you haven't decorated recently!    Run a CAT5e cable (or 2, materials are cheap, disruption and time are the issues) between the two locations, i.e. where the router is to the AV area in the lounge.  Terminate into CAT5e face plates at each end, and then use a patch cable into each of these to connect suitably sized gigabit Ethernet switches.  The AV equipment is then patched into this.  Upstairs, move one of your devices to the switch so you can connect the upstairs switch to your Home Hub.  This provides the best reliability and performance (assuming a cable install made to specifications), but also relieves your WiFi network of a few devices which can improve service there too.

I understand the latter method may be difficult to do, but it's my highly recommended approach.

RayP

Hi Chester,

Many thanks for your reply and advice. Let me clarify a few things which may help with your next reply. I'll detail each device downstairs and what I will use it for.

First of all I don't play games so that isn't a factor.

Lounge Equipment.

Loewe TV. Only network requirement is to watch YouTube videos including 4K ones. With a mesh satellite unit on the opposite side of the room (3 metres away) the signal should be excellent. 60Mbps  should be achievable.

Oppo 203 UHD Player. The only network requirement is for playing music stored on my NAS box upstairs which sits right next to the BT Home Hub 5. FLAC files. No video.

Sky Q box. Used to download UHD films. Again, download speeds should be more than double what I get now. I don't watch any streaming content on it.

Yamaha RX-A3010. No more firmware updates and I don't listen to internet radio. Just needs to be connected to my network.

Upstairs Bedroom

BT Home Hub Router connected to master phone socket.

Netgear Gigabit Switching Box. Used to provide additional ethernet ports.

Synology DS212J NAS Box. Stores backups, music and photos. Wired Ethernet connection only.

2 x Windows 7 PCs Ethernet connected via Gigabit switching box to Home Hub 5.

HP Laserjet printer ethernet-connected to gigabit switching box.

Running an Ethernet cable from upstairs to the lounge has been considered and rejected because of the mess it would create. I appreciate it's the best option but I don't want the mess.

That leaves me with a wireless option. The sticking points appear to be the Yamaha AVR but a Wifi - Ethernet adaptor looks to be the ideal solution for that. I assume it can tap into the mesh wi-fi?

What about the NAS box upstairs? It's essential it's visible to my Oppo downstairs since I access my music files via it. Can the new BT mesh hub 'see' any ethernet-connected components?

In short I need visibility of both wired and wireless components on my network but this mesh unit only appears to 'see' WiFi ones. That is a nuisance and potentially a show-stopper. Perhaps the critical ethernet-connected components - AVR and NAS box - need a wifi-ethernet adaptor even though one of them is right next to the mesh router.

RayP

I suppose if this wireless option becomes impractical I may need to consider a wired one. I did look through Which? Recommended tradesmen but who does this kind of work? Electricians or different specialists?

RayP

Chester,

Did some more thinking. How about running a suitable ethernet cable out of the bedroom, down an external wall and into the rear part of the lounge / dining room? It could then be routed under the floor to one access point to the left of the chimney breast. Then route another to a second access point to the right of the chimney breast. The only outdoor section would be around 6 meters down a NW-facing wall.

Would this be suitable?  External CAT5e Outdoor Use COPPER Ethernet Network Cable Reel UTP 100m - EUO-003714 - kenable for HDMI Optical TOS Network Ethernet RJ45 Scart Audio Phono Jack USB Firewire 800 ADSL Cable Leads

If suitable can you recommend what other parts I need please? Networking is not my strong point.

Chester

That's a lot of questions in that lot Ray!  I'm glad you're reconsidering the cabled route, and it's definitely the way to go.  You certainly wouldn't need 100m for a couple of >8m runs, but it may be useful for further projects.  Yes it's the right stuff.  For recessed boxes, you'll need some 35mm boxes, and then the face plates, tools for the job, including a punch-down/Krone/IDC tool.

I like these face plates because they've got angled outlets and don't sprout cables in towards the room too much.  You've already got a switch upstairs, so it's another one downstairs, CAT5e patch leads of colour and length you need (go for snagless to prevent breaking the latching tabs) and you're good to go.

Not sure about the AP bits either side of the chimney breast.  If you wanted to improve WiFi coverage at the same time, it sure is a good time to do it, but I'd go with a totally different solution like Ubiquiti Unify.  I'm not sure I want to muddy things too much at this stage though as a worthwhile WiFi deployment can get complex.  I'd suggest breaking down a networking improvement programme into separate projects, and crack the cabling and switching first.  However, you may want to look at a PoE switch if you're thinking about lots of small devices that could be PoE powered, like WiFi access points.  At this stage, I don't think it's necessary, I'm just mentioning it for completeness.

Oh, as for tradesmen, I think most networking specialists will suggest staying away from electricians, even for pulling cables!  That said, some electricians understanding data cabling well and will install to specification. CAT5e is reasonably forgiving to do yourself if you're OK with DIY.  If you can drill holes through external walls, thread through and clip cables, chase in boxes into the wall for a flush finish, you should be able to do this no problem.  You'll need to understand some dos and do nots first of course.

RayP

Hi Chester,

I'm afraid my DIY skills are close to zero so unless I can find a suitable tradesman then the wired option isn't going to happen. This is so frustrating because you'd think in this day and age electricians would realise there's a market to be tapped here but it seems wi-fi works for most people.

The items that use wi-fi are extremely reliable. My laptop is problem free whereas since the rewire the various wired components have become slower and less reliable. I tested download speeds using the ethernet cables connected to my Sky box and it was as low as 11Mbps. The TV using a separate power socket can get as high as 30Mbps but they're on the same circuit. Arrghh!

All this is on hold until the spring anyway and I can use the info you have kindly provided should I find a suitable tradesman. At least I've deduced the BT mesh route is not viable for my network as a whole so it's still been a useful exercise.

Chester

I think you'll find any electrician worth their salt has plenty of work on without the need of branching out from their main focus.  Some offer data cabling, but they might simply do this on the back of already performing first and second fix for mains current applications.  It's really not the same at all!

WiFi is extremely reliable - now!  It's a dynamic world that's constantly changing.  

What re-wiring are you referring to?  Why would this have an impact on Ethernet appliances?  Are you using Powerline adapters, or part of Sky Q?  If yes on the latter, no wonder!  I regard it as a last ditch attempt to get a network going.  I know a Q installer that refuses to use it and instead uses CAT6 and disables the Powerline feature.  There are times that Powerline can work, but I wouldn't use it in your circumstances.

The thing about a certified (or at the very least qualified) CAT5e infrastructure is it will provide consistent and repeatable reliable results, more so than your WiFi network ever will, trust me.  That's why it's the 'go-to' method, albeit we also understand it can be the most challenging to implement.

So I'm glad this has been useful information.  I'd have thought, as long as the corresponding physical areas are easy to access and there are no hidden challenges, this install should take around half a day for the trained professional, with attention to detail on bend radii, clipping and sealing, and least amount of aesthetic disturbance in a typical brick building.  Add stone walls, thick cladding, immovable furniture or other obstructions, the complexity and time for the job will increase substantially.

RayP

My house rewiring. Before everything was on a single ring main and I always had 3 green lights on the Powerline adaptors - Solwise HomePlug AV 500. A decent enough make. Since the rewire I now have two ring mains and whilst the downstairs sockets used by my AV kit were on a different circuit to upstairs where the router is that was changed by the electrician.

Understood but if it's not possible to have the cabling professionally installed then I have to look for alternatives.

It's a 3 bed 1960 semi so the walls are standard brick with an air gap. I shall continue to look for an electrician that might do the work. It's only half a day as you say. Surely one can fit it in providing they're qualified with the wiring involved.

One suggestion made by an employee at Richer Sounds was to change the router for a more powerful one. He recommended the Netgear Nighthawk. Might that work? I have moved my BT one as far as I can and my kit in the lounge now reports a signal strength of 70% but presumably that could rise with a better router.

RayP

Just to confirm I don't have any hardware from Sky except for the Sky Q box. Looking at my network status in Sky it says the network name is SKYA4DE5, connected to a broadband router and connected to internet.