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When I did some in my home, (only a single cable,) I chased off a bit of the bottom of my skirting boards and ran the cable there. By the time one buts up the carpet/laminate, it hid everything.
When crossing any walkways, I chased a channel in the concrete, "stuck" the cable in with some sealant (silicone IIRC - simply because it was what I had on hand) and then a line of duct tape on top. Certainly no "bump" and hopefully so doing means there won't be any "rub" from the foot traffic and vacuum cleaner to (eventually) wear through the sheathing. I've no idea how this effects the electrical performance, and professional sparks are probably rubbing their heads and cursing lightly as they read this.
The "which cat to use" debate rubbles on and on. Generally I argue that cat5e is more than good enough for ethernet (up to Gigabit) unless you do a spectacularly bad job of it. Ethernet doesn't work any "better" because you give it higher cat cable.
Higher cat cables are mechanically stiffer as they (usually) have "forms" inside the cable structure to keep the wire pairs physically separated from each other. The higher "cats" also mandate that cabling has to be installed into "proper" containment (tracks, trunking, etc.) so clipping cables to skirting boards, running it under carpets, etc. instantly "fails" it as cat6/7 (possibly even cat5e.) As I am fond of saying, most DIY'ers don't test their installs with the very expensive test equipment required to certify them, so strictly speaking they are not "cat" anything. There's much more to it that simply buying catX cable. You also need to obey all the installations stipulations and test it.
But that doesn't mean is won't "work" for 10/100/1000 ethernet. Just don't be" disappointed" if you try to stick 10Gig ethernet down it at some future date and it doesn't work.
Thusly, "why bother" with the higher cats, cat5e is cheaper and easier to install. Though there is a good argument for cat6/cat6a as the cost difference these days isn't much so you "might as well" but bear in mind it's (usually) stiffer.
A couple of other things to bear in mind - UTP should not be "bent" - it needs to "curve" around any corners, IIRC min radius is something like 4x the sheath diameter. Try not to crush or nick it - for higher cats, this is increasingly important (part of the installation specs. say you are supposed to "lay" in all cable not "Pull" it for example.)
Also beware of some of the snake oil out there: Copper Clad Aluminium (CCA) cable is not permitted in the"cat" standards, you get a few people punting it. I'm not sure if this applies to "flat" cable, but be weary when you hear phrases like "catX tested" "catX equivalent" and other such BS. It could be fake - price often a giveaway too - if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is. |
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