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I agree with Dolby about the Hunter's set up - I wouldn't use anything else now. And for that reason alone I wouldn't got to a Halfords or National Tyres for anything other than tyres and balance. And even then I'd be dubious.
Wheel balance is very basic - it simply spins on a machine that points out where one side of the wheel is heavier than the other, and a weight is put in place to compensate. But what it can't do is tell you if the wheel is buckled or has a flat spot. It only spins up to a certain speed/rev so will only point out so much - what might appear, at low revolutions (for example 40mph), to be an imbalance that's "fixed" with a weight could actually be a flat spot on the wheel or slight buckle. This shows up at a much higher revolution, in your case around 70-80mph.
It can also be suspension, as he later points out, with either a worn component like a bush or a bad set up. You can test this simply by swapping the front and back wheels. If the steering wheel vibration goes away, then you know it's the road wheel; if the steering wheel vibration remains, it's probably suspension related.
Lastly, it could be a brake problem. Slightly binding caliper(s) or a "warped" disc (discs don't actually warp anymore - nor bend - but you can get the same effect from having pad deposits stuck to the disc face and uneven wear due to either a sticking caliper or after a heavy emergency brake to full stop). This can show up at higher wheel speeds and revolutions and only be noticeable at higher speeds than lower. |
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