They're probably talking about the old model, not the 'B'
Our house is a new build so it also has insulation. White fluffy stuff. What I did was drill a hole at an angle going up where I wanted the camera, then using electricians rods (C.K Mighty Rod Cable Rod Set 3.3m 15 Pieces) I fed them through the hole and into the loft. It's a bit tricky but with some wiggling and the flexible end attachment it doesn't take long. Then attached the Ethernet cable in the loft and pull the rods back through. I used one of these to attached the cable (Super Rod Super Grip Cable Connectors Pack 4-15mm 4 Pack). The harder you pull, the harder it grips.
Be very careful dragging Cat 5 / 6 cables. They are not overly robust and it is quite easy to snap the conductors. Never try and drag a cable if it feels stuck or is not moving. Try and gently ease it back and try drawing it again. It is a rookie error to try and jerk or snatch a cable that wont move, you will most likely damage or snap it - this is especially important when trying to pull cables through cavities or dry liners. The cable should always be moving relatively freely. I often try and draw a pair of cables together as it improves the overall tensile strength of the cable (but also increases it resistance too). I tend to bond them together with tape at 20cm intervals for the first metre or so.
Its always good practice to check the cable continuity as soon as you have dragged it rather than waiting 2 weeks to find out that you have damaged the cable during install.
With regard drawing up cavities - you may find obstructions, depending on where you are drawing your cables. Things like cavity trays, snot, strapping, half blocks / bricks etc can sometimes foul parts of the cavity.
Final advice - drawing cables is ideally a 2 man job, 1 to feed and one to draw. Most of all, be patient.
Thanks, that looks good gear. The installer I asked to quote had only suggested running cables outside of walls so he doesnt seem to be aware of this method. I'll put this to him.
Thanks for this sound advice. Yes, definitely worth checking integrity of cables after pulled through.
When I spoke to my installer about this method he did say it would add a lot to the price as it is more time-consuming.
If I did decide to stick to cameras on soffits, what is the zoom like on the 8mp hikvision cameras? Enough to make out a face? Or not?can't find comparison videos showing that on these cameras. Just older ones.
It really doesn't. you're still drilling a hole in the wall for the cable to pass through, you save time from having to pin the cable to the wall as it's inside the cavity, but yes it can be a bit tricky to get it into the loft. I did the first one and that took a bit longer than the other 2 I ran because I picked up the "knack". it's the difference between 5 minutes and 10 minutes per cable.
Im trying to picture how you got it out at the loft. Did you drill a fairly large hole at the loft above where the camera hole is to aim for? I'm amazed that anyone could catch that loft hole themselves feeding up from the camera hole.
In the loft there is a gap (in my house at least). You get to the top of the cavity so there isn't anything blocking it except for a small green flat bag of insulation. Just pull this out in advance.
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This photo shows a black bag instead for example.
This photo shows something similar. The top of these two walls is where your roof sits across, but doesn't block the top of the cavity.
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