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That strikes me as a good idea - when you've been "In the business" for long enough, we tend to not think twice about crimping plugs on cables after you've done the first hundred or so, but newbies can find it a bit of a learning curve (albeit usually a short one.)
When I'm teaching it to people, the most common issues I find are (in no particular order)
1) The wires jump around as you insert the into the plug making the sequence wrong, so check three times, crimp once.
2) The wires are not pushed in far enough, they need to go right down to the end of the plug otherwise the tangs on the connectors can "miss" when you crimp. Some of the newer plugs enable the wires to pass right through, thence you clip them off to length after crimping which alleviates this issue.
3) Didn't crimp hard enough, so the tangs on the connectors don't penetrate the insulation and hit the conductors therein. Crimp harder!
The plug design I've seen most have a little "C" shaped piece (you can see it from the side if you have a look at a new unused one) which is designed to pierce the insulation and nestle amongst the strands of the conductor. This is why you need "stranded/patch" cable as this "C" piece doesn't contact so well with solid core cable. If you are shortening a pre-made patch-cord, then you can be fairly confident this has stranded cable.
It would be worth checking the pin-out of the original plug you leave on: There's two pinouts commonly used known colloquially as "A" an "B." There days nearly everything is "B," but it's worth checking as if you've got an cable "A" and make it "B" on one end, you'll have made a "crossover" cable which isn't what you need - it should be "straight." If you have got an "A" pin out, then crimp your new plug the same. Basically, for ethernet over UTP the pin outs need to be the same both ends of the cable whether they use "A" or "B" pinout. |
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