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The camera is "almost" seeing what is there; - excepting that "designers" of car-dashboards like to have their input, which usually means it's non reflective, dull and so on. The screen-makers only sell to the car Mfr if their screen is daylight viewable ( eg in a car with the roof down ) - hence there is a wild difference in brightness levels. But I'd expect there is some dimming when the lights are on...?
To that extent you can't fix the difference....
......although some ND filter, applied to the screen would mean the dash would appear brighter. You'll have to go to Pro-Suppliers for a large sheet of this ND stuff - and apply it with care so as to minimise reflections. You could alter the "colour" by using a coloured filter - My alarm clock-radio (display) is covered in deep RED so the blue LCD hardly shows, making it easier to read at night...of course it's trickier in daylight, but I can lift the filter as it's hinged.
I'm not clear "why" you want the dash-Scree to be equally exposed - other than it just looks wrong, otherwise.
However,this filter-suggestion may prevent "touch" operation - so you may have to handle that separately e.g. by interposing cutaways of most action areas. If these are done as a close-up then the exposure issue may be reduced with a ND filter on the camcorder itself.
In the past it was possible to get camera filters with a central zone of a different colour . . . not exactly what you want (I suspect)- but might be worth trying if the camera is rigidly mounted some distance from the filter-holder. ie suspend this ND filter material so the LCD screen is darkened, allowing the "touch" to remain good.
I fear a camera-rig is fast-approaching, so you have the necessary play-room.... very important should a re-shoot be needed.
That LCD refresh-rate may be your prime difficulty - and only by altering the shutter-speed can you remove some of this, if it isn't exactly matched. An alternative might be to use stills - if the LCD display only changes slowly ( e.g when some feature is happening ), then stills at 1/4 second intervals will not lose anything. If you apply "touch" action very slowly your audience might not notice enough to complain ((It's only a hand getting in the way of the view anyway)).... Pro camcorders are not usually very well-spec'd for stills - and some don't do stills as that's another person's job ( So I've been told!).... which is silly IMHO since stills can be useful. Some cameras will take 2, or 3 stills quickly at different exposures - so this might allow some cropping/inserting to balance the screen/dashboard. However, that involves more work later-on.... whereas fixing a piece of filter is a 1-off faf and you can see it's right-enough at the time...
Combing both filter approaches with movie-stills should fix all of the above issues and if done within the "Story-telling" the results (technique) might be unnoticed by the Boss and the Audience, too.
Good luck. |
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