If you get the 40w istick, you'll be ready for temperature control in the future if you decide to try that out. The 50w doesn't do TC. You don't have to use TC of course, but once you get further along in your vaping journey you may want to give it a go.
As for a new tank, I would go with the Kanger Subtank Mini rather than the nano. The mini comes with a rebuildable section which you might not feel ready for yet, but I can bet you will in the future.
Well, it's been an interesting trip to the shop, I ended up with an iStick 100w, as I prefer removable batteries.... two aspire batteries, 20ml of free juice (remembered to get only 6mg) and, since they didn't have the smok atta tank, they suggested a Smok Micro GDC, though now I have it all home and unused still, I don't think the Smok GDC is a sub ohm tank.... it comes with 3 coils that are 1.5ohm each data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
The chap in the shop today was nice, but it's his brother's shop, who I spoke to yesterday (and usually deal with), and he was just looking after the store for the day.
So I guess I'll have to go back and change the tank....
In the mean time I would like to try the iStick out, but I'm not sure if I can use my Pro Tank 2 with it?? (Just googling like mad, watching and reading some reviews.)
tris
You can put pretty much any tank on any mod, however, it's the ohm rating of the coil you need to pay attention to. The istick should tell you what ohm coils it can take, I would imagine without looking it will go as low as 0.3 or 0.2 and as high as about 3 ohms, so I would imagine your protanks will be fine. Just be a bit wary of the amount of watts you put through it, this guide should help: http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m9dkanCt0I1qc8949o2_1280.png
Ahh, found the site, it states:
0.15ohm-5ohm
https://www.eleafworld.co.uk/100w-istick
The coils in that are 1.8ohm, so they are within the resistance.
Just tried it with my kanger protank, so I know it's working ok data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7 Thanks for that chart, looks like I have been vaping 'Too Warm, Some juices may fry' part on my pro vari these past few years. Though I have had to turn it up and down depending on liquid and coils, as I used to use 2.xohm coils.
The Smok Micro GDC tank that the guy sold me just seems like a normal, dual coil tank with 1.8ohm coils rather than a sub ohm tank from what I have read. I've not used it so it looks like I'll have to take that back tomorrow and see the owner who can sell me a proper sub ohm tank.
tris
Here's a pic btw data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
https://www.avforums.com/data/attachments/553/553209-1c9c21e87164c3df492b5c6d797593ba.jpg
I'd be careful with those Aspire batteries if I were you, I'm sure I read/watched some bad reviews on those when they were first launched. Just had a quick look and can't find any info now but if I come across anything I'll post a link up here.
Thanks for that info,looks like I've been vaping too hot too
I found this on them:
Aspire 40A 1800mAh 18650 Bench Test Results | E-Cigarette Forum
I really have no understanding on what it all means though data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
tris
That was the one I read.
Ahh, do you understand it all? I have read over it a few times now and can't make head nor tale of it?
Does it mean we have to always make sure to use the batteries above 3.15v so we don't go anywhere near 40A (amps I presume)?
tris
To get anywhere near a 40amp draw with a 1.8ohm coil you would need to be around 70v.
At that resistance, at 4.4v, you'll only be pulling 2.4amps so should be fine, even at 0.2ohm @4.4v (96.8w) you'll be pulling 22amps. so again fine. To pull anywhere near 40amps at 0.2 you'll still need to 8v (320w)
Its a good idea to have a rough knowledge of ohms law when it comes to vaping sub-ohm
http://www.steam-engine.org/ohm.asp