LOL, yes it was set right to begin with, but I gave t back to the science department and I think someone else then used it. ( i work in a school) or it was a different one, they have about three of the same make.
Looking at the top of the battery on a previous pic I can see what look like cross head screws, would these need to be opened up and topped up with deionized distilled water?
Most modern batteries are maintenance free.
Start with a 1.5 or 9V battery & get that correctly reading. Then it's just a case of making sure you have good, solid contact between the battery terminals & meter probes.
switch the meter to 20 V ( about 10 past on the dial ) keep the small black switch on DC
negative ( black probe ) plugs into the middle socket ( COM ) at the bottom
positive ( red probe ) plugs into the right side socket ( VΩA ) at the bottom
switch meter on and touch red and - black terminals with the probes on the battery
job done data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7
Ok...
All sorted, the second meter I used was also duff! LOL, I blame austerity and lack of school funding!
The Science Tech came down and had a look with his meter during his lunch and it's now reading what it should be. 12.5 then almost 14 when the engine starts! I must have just run it down with small trips.
Yay!
A very big thanks to all that have offered help on this thread, I actually think I have learned something as well
Cheers, all!
David.
If the short trip usage is likely to continue then it would probably be worth investing in a battery conditioner. Assuming you have a drive or garage.
Whats a battery conditioner?
A small charger that you connect to the car when it's not being used. Will nullify the effects of little use but not sure about daily short journeys. Something like this. That's just an example not a recommendation.
It's a sophisticated battery charger.
charging voltage should be over 14v nothing less..